From craft beer to ramen, this old-school Showa-era building in Shinbashi is filled with affordable places to eat and drink

Ginza is ritzy and splashy; it’s a good place to wine and dine when you’re splurging. But if you prefer something that has a better cospa (ie, cost performance, the local way of saying ‘more bang for your buck’), take a short 10-minute walk to the adjacent neighbourhood of Shinbashi. Or more specifically, the Shinbashi Ekimae Building 1.

Located across the street from Shimbashi Station, Shinbashi Ekimae Building 1 feels like a time capsule from the past. Its nondescript, ageing facade may not look very welcoming, but don’t let that deter you. This building has been a mainstay for salarymen in the area since opening in 1966, and it's home to a surprising number of cheap and cheerful restaurants and bars as well as a small basement yokocho called Tanuki Alley.

You’ll find most of the eateries spread out between the basement and the second floor (the rest of the building is mostly occupied by offices). Many of them have remained unchanged since the Showa era (1926–1989). To help you navigate this old-world labyrinth, we’ve picked out some of our favourite restaurants and bars you should definitely check out for budget-friendly food and drinks.

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One of the few restaurants on the second floor of Shinbashi Ekimae Building 1, this udon shop caters to the lunchtime crowd. It’s packed as soon as it opens at 11am; you’ll often see the queue before you even get close to the door.

The menu is straightforward: either hot or cold udon. The noodles are Inaniwa-style, meaning they are a lot thinner than the thick udon commonly found in Tokyo. The zaru (cold dipping) udon is by far the most popular item on the menu. It’s served on a bamboo tray along with a delicious dipping broth made from duck, sesame and loads of myoga (Japanese ginger) and negi (green onion).

If you’re really hungry – which most diners are – you can pair your udon with a mini donburi rice bowl. Options range from a simple maguro tuna bowl to bara chirashi (mixed chopped seafood).

This time-worn kissaten oozes with Showa-era vibes. From the fake food displays out front to the retro interiors, Parlor Kimuraya is exactly what you’d expect from a classic Tokyo kissaten. Having been around for over 30 years, the café has a particular charm that can't be replicated at any modern coffee shop or café. It really feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. 

The menu offers all the classic kissaten staples including napolitan pasta (ketchup spaghetti), chicken rice topped with an egg 'blanket', and pizza toast. There’s also a handful of colourful desserts such as kakigori shaved ice, pudding, anmitsu (agar jelly with fruit) and banana sundaes.

Open from an early 8am, Parlor Kimuraya is a great place to grab a quick breakfast or a coffee while watching the Shinbashi office workers go about their day.

This tiny ramen restaurant has only five counter seats and a kitchen so small the chef can do nearly everything from just standing in one spot. Opened in 2021, Haru Chan is relatively new compared to its neighbours, but the noodle joint feels as if it’s been there for years. Specialising in ramen with niboshi (dried sardine) and pork-based broth, the noodles are satisfying without being too overwhelmingly rich like tonkotsu. 

The ramen comes with thick slices of stewed char siu and chewy, medium-thick flat noodles that leave you wanting more. Aside from the standard chuka soba ramen, Haru Chan also serves tsukemen (dipping noodles) with plenty of veggies including cabbage and bean sprouts. Somewhat peculiar as a ramen condiment, little jars of minced garlic are placed by every diner, which you can add to your broth to give it a spicy kick.

Ogawaken is a Tokyo institution. The long-standing patisserie has both a takeaway shop and a sit-in café called Salon de Thé, where you can enjoy beautiful cakes and pastries over tea or coffee. Signature items include the strawberry shortcake, mango pie and the light-as-air puffs filled with fresh cream. Keep an eye out for seasonal specialities like the summer-only peach pie made with custard cream, fresh peaches and homemade puff pastry.

If you only try one thing, Ogawaken’s most popular speciality is the raisin sandwich cookies. The creamy filling is the star, crafted with rich butter and premium vanilla. You can pick up a box of five for ¥675 – it makes a great gift, as it’s already nicely wrapped up.

Another newcomer to the Shinbashi Ekimae Building, Viva Okei serves hearty Italian fare alongside an extensive selection of natural wines. The restaurant also doubles as a bottle shop, where you can pick up bottles of wine to go.

At any given time, there are at least 20 types of wine on the shelves, with only a bottle or two each, meaning the stock here changes frequently to keep things fresh and exciting. Viva Okei also has a particularly good selection of orange wines, which is rare in Tokyo.

If you’re dining in, you can order wine by the glass, decanter or bottle. Want to try a few different varieties without committing to an entire bottle? There’s also a wall filled with wine options that you can only order by the glass. 

Viva Okei has a regular and a seasonal food menu, with the latter changing monthly. One of the most popular dishes is the ricotta pomodoro pasta topped with a generous helping of ricotta cheese. You can also order cheese plates that pair nicely with wine. For adventurous eaters, seek out the more obscure dishes like kangaroo prosciutto.

With an overwhelming selection of 30 craft beers on tap at all times, this casual bar is a great place to try out different styles of beer from various domestic breweries across Japan. Craft Beer iBrew is also one of the cheapest bars for craft beer, as a half-pint serve starts at ¥390 and a full pint at just ¥690. 

It’s mainly counter seats around the bar, with a handful of small standing tables that spill out into the hallway. The no-frills atmosphere is what adds to its charm, and you’ll often spot salarymen nursing a pint or two after work.

Craft Beer iBrew is also one of the few venues inside the Shinbashi Ekimae Building that remain open on weekends. Most of the other venues cater solely to the weekday business crowds.

There’s still plenty to eat at the bustling Tsukiji: tamagoyaki omelette sandwiches, tuna sashimi, grilled scallops and more

From old-school noodles and tonkotsu classics to soupless tsukemen and spicy favourites – you'll be bowled over by these ramen