Vic Poulos calls Anson 11’s wine list eclectic.

Vic Poulos calls Anson 11’s wine list eclectic.

I like wine and I appreciate a good wine list when I go out to eat.

I own a winery here in El Paso, one in Italy and belong to a wine tasting group that has met once a week for over 15 years. 

And it’s also a fact that more and more people are enjoying wine.

According to an article in the Harvard Business Review, “What the Wine Industry Understands About Connecting with Consumers,” the United States wine industry has ballooned from around $30 billion in 2002, to more than $60 billion in 2019.

As a matter of fact, the United States wine industry is the largest in the world!  

Wine is the only beverage where so called “experts” tell you what you should like, but I believe that wine ratings are overrated.

In 2021, according to Wine Spectator, a California 90-point wine will cost an average of $93, while a 90 pointer from France is $110 and one from Italy is $85.

No matter what the experts say, I believe you should simply drink the wine you like, be it red or white, dry or sweet, and don’t worry about the ratings or the cost. Higher price does not necessarily mean better wine.  

Along those lines, I’d like to share the best restaurants in town where you can find wine you’ll like – not just wine that rates the best.

Perhaps you might find yourself dining on an expense account with your boss and some colleagues. You want to sound impressive with your wine acumen, but you also know that some people at the table like red wine and some like white wine. What do you do?

Ask the sommelier what wine generally pairs well as you point to the pinot noir section of the wine list. They will know that pinot noir goes just as well with fish as red meat and is generally a wine everyone likes.

As you then point to the price range you are aiming for,  ask –  “What do you recommend from this region?” 

You now sound like a wine expert to the table, and you have just limited the runaway wine sommelier from overselling your table an expensive wine you really can’t afford. 

Keep in mind that restaurants typically mark up their wines two to three times the wholesale price they paid for it. That means the price of a glass of wine on the list is generally what the restaurant paid for the whole bottle! 

If you’re in a group of four or more wine drinkers, it is always more economical to buy a bottle than go by the glass.

I’ve also noticed over time that when you walk into a restaurant, the overhead music will tell you a lot about the wine selections you are about to encounter.

Loud, country music, order beer.

Hard rock, go with sweet wines and wings.

If there is a piano player playing on a real piano, or Yacht Rock on the speakers, you probably will get a decent wine list.

Over the next couple of months, I will feature my personal El Paso restaurant choices on categories of wine lists available.

From the “boss is in town tonight” wine list to the “I am taking the family out and I simply want a decent glass of wine” list, the following are some local examples of wine lists in El Paso. 

Boss is in town night selection

• Café Central: High-end food and wine, but you pay top pricing on both. Quality wine and extensive list and excellent glassware. Perhaps a separate tip for food and wine would be helpful.

• Anson 11: Eclectic but quality list, well managed by the manager Gerardo, perhaps the most knowledgeable sommelier in town. He will truly lead you to a “gem,” but again, expect to pay gem prices. They also have a great glassware selection. 

• Stanton House: The owners started the restaurant to showcase their wine cellar and they absolutely accomplish that! Enjoy the view of the cellar and ask for a wine from their “private stash” if the owners happen to be in. They have a truly excellent and eclectic list.  

• 1700 Degrees, Paso del Norte Hotel: It’s a steak house so it’s heavy on red wines. You’ll find reasonably priced and a broad appeal on the list. Just don’t expect an extensive list of white wines. 

• Ruth’s Chris: Here is your classic corporate wine list. They know that you will most likely want a cabernet sauvignon with that steak, so don’t look for any exotic white wines or light reds here.   

Please keep in mind that the above thoughts are only my own. There are certainly other lists in El Paso that I haven’t had the fortune to try.

Next month, we’ll look at some quality lists to enjoy with your family.

I welcome your comments and thoughts at vfplaw@aol.com.

Vic Poulos owns Zin Valle Vineyards in Canutillo, Texas, and is an owner of Fattoria Svetoni Wine resort in Montepulciano, Italy. He can be reached at vfplaw@aol.com.

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